Merthyr’s Chapels: Williams Memorial Chapel, Penydarren

Williams Memorial Congregationalist Chapel, Penydarren

At the beginning of the 20th Century it was decided to build an English Independent Chapel for the rapidly growing population in Penydarren.

A committee of representatives of local Independent chapels was set up in 1901 and they agreed that the first task was to establish a Sunday School. This opened in Penydarren Boys School on 9 March 1902. More than a year was to pass before the first church service was held there on 12 April 1903, and on 25 May, the church was officially formed with 32 members, and a special service was held in Horeb Chapel.

The future of the church was discussed at a meeting presided over by Alderman Thomas Williams, J.P. (right), who owned much land in Penydarren. He was a staunch follower of the Independent movement and a supporter of the new church, and promised to make a gift to help build it. However, Alderman Williams died just two months later, but he had already arranged for a plot of land to be leased to the chapel in Brynheulog Street for 999 years at a rent of just one shilling a year. It was thus decided to name the chapel in honour of him.

On 19 November 1903, a meeting took place to discuss building the new chapel, and Messrs Owen Morris Roberts & Son, Porthmadoc were chosen to design the chapel. The committee decided that the cost of the building was not to exceed £1,800

The original plan submitted included a gallery and a schoolroom, but the committee decided that this plan was too ambitious and costly for their chapel, and also the members of the other Independent Churches recommended that the cost should be no more than £1,000, as there had been a very disappointing response to the original appeal for financial aid towards the building of the chapel.

After several further revisions of the plans, a tender was accepted for the work from Mr Samuel Evans of Dowlais, the cost being £1,258, and the stone laying took place on 19 July 1906.

The official opening of the chapel took place on 25 October 1906, and it was first used as a place of worship two days later. Due to an oversight however, the church wasn’t officially certified by the Registrar General as a place of worship until 2 July 1917.

The Chapel closed in 1996 and was subsequently demolished.

Memories of Old Merthyr

We continue our serialisation of the memories of Merthyr in the 1830’s by an un-named correspondent to the Merthyr Express, courtesy of Michael Donovan.

Reader, take a ride by the Taff Vale Railway from Merthyr to Troedyrhiw, and the locus in quo ought to be recognised.

William Williams by an unknown artist. Courtesy of Cyfarthfa Castle Museum and Art Gallery

Mr Henry Kirkhouse was the chief mineral agent at Cyfarthfa, but two of his sons were with him. They resided at Llwyncelyn. Old Mr Wm Williams (known as No 8) was the mechanical engineer; he lived at Pwll Watt. Mr Thomas, the cashier, lived at Nantygwenith Turnpike Gate. Mr Jeffries was the furnace manager at Cyfarthfa, and Mr John Jones was so for Ynysfach. There were some excellent workmen at Cyfarthfa – Saunders, the master moulder of one part and Wm Thomas of the other foundry. The master fitter’s name has slipped my memory, but one of the men, David Charles, can be recalled.

Cyfarthfa was always celebrated for its machinery and engines. Watkin George, the predecessor of Mr Williams, was a man of noted ability; and, as far as known, that reputation is still maintained. George Cope Pearce was the mechanical engineer for a quarter of a century, his predecessor being his brother-in-law, John P Roe. The Williams family were good engineers too.

I forbear to mention some things that can be remembered lest I am prolix, but George Cope Pearce was so original that some two or three things will be stated. His desire for engineering was so strong as to induce his running away from home (his father was the custos of Hereford cathedral), and in coming to Dowlais he enquired for work. Seeing he was not of the class that generally applied, enquiries were made of him, with the result that, while he was hanging on in hopes, his father was communicated with, and came for him; but Sir John (Guest) agreed to take him on after spending some terms at King’s Engineering College. This was done, but his family and friends endeavoured to turn him.

In 1838 he was loco. superintendent at Dowlais; but as was the general rule, he did not get money enough to satisfy him, and went to Messrs Powell at Clydach, near Abergavenny, and engaged in their service. This becoming known, Mr Thomas Evans took him in hand, and by fair promises induced him to write a letter abandoning the idea. Cope could not get the advance expected, and ere three months had gone, Mr Evans began ruling with usual iron rod. They had a few words, and, upon Mr Evans alluding to his having written the letter, heard, “Oh yes; but I forgot to post it”. What followed need not be said. He went to Clydach, and, after a few years, thinking their machinery did not require such a high-priced man, Messrs Powell spoke to him, pointing out what an easy place he had. “Oh then you want a smash or two, I suppose. Well, I daresay that can be arranged, if you wish”. Do not think this is untrue, for it is a fact.

He left Clydach some years ago and came to Cyfarthfa. He was very friendly with William Menelaus. Menelaus was a hot-tempered man, and Pearce was quite the opposite. “Now Menelaus”, he said, “you are very foolish to go on so; it would pay you better to pay a man 30s a week to do the swearing”. He was a good horologist, a microscopist and a musician. Amongst his other makings was a machine to delineate sound curves.

My last visit to Cefn Cemetery was to pay the only tribute to his memory, and I was rather surprised at the paucity of attendance, knowing how highly he was esteemed. He sleeps, however, quite as soundly. During one of the many conversations I asked him, “Why did you leave Cyfarthfa?”. “Well, you see, I had been there some time, and got on very well with the old ones, but somehow or other, not much with the young ones, and rather than lose my temper I resigned”.

To be continued at a later date.

Merthyr’s Heritage Plaques: Howard Winstone

by Keith Lewis-Jones

Howard Winstone

Plaque sited at CF47 8EG

Howard Winstone, 1939-2000, was born in Merthyr Tydfil. He lost three fingertips in a factory accident which meant that he was never a great puncher, but won a Gold Medal at the 1957 Commonwealth Games followed by the ABA championship.

He turned professional in 1959 and became the undefeated British & European featherweight champion from 1961 to 1968. He fought three times for the World Championship losing each time before, after the retirement of Vincente Saldivar, winning the World Title in 1968. Having passed his best, he lost the title in the same year.

He was made a Freeman of the Borough in 1969.

Merthyr Memories: Merthyr Town F.C.

by Paul Newman

I began to watch football at an early age with my father at Penydarren Park. I recall the colourful characters in the crowd who often give some poor referee a verbal hammering. The colourful comments were often also directed at the opposition and some Merthyr players who had the misfortune of misplacing a pass.  I bag of crisps and a chocolate bar and live football. I was hooked.

Penydarren Park. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

There was very little live televised football at the time. Therefore visits to Penydarren Park were our fix. We would come to watch both Southern League and Welsh League games. In my teenage years I would watch games with a group of school friends from Cyfarthfa High School. In later years I now attend with my son.

The first game I remember, and the first disappointment was the FA Cup Second Round defeat v Hendon in 1973, at the park. Hendon were drawn away to Newcastle in the next round which only added to the disappointment. I recall “King” John Charles was playing for the Town that day. I met John Charles many years latter at Elland Road Leeds. He spoke fondly of his time at Merthyr in which he was player manager. He also drove the team bus to away games!

Merthyr Town F.C. in 1974. John Charles heading the ball. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive.

I began watching the Martyrs on a regular basis in 1976; I remember the bruising battles with Barry Town in the league and Cup.  1977-78, was a good memory quarter final of the FA Trophy 1-1 v Runcorn at home Paul Caviel scored a header and had a better header disallowed. We was robbed! There was also a mid-week away trip to Wrexham in the Welsh Cup which was one of my first away games apart from our annual visit to Jenner Park in Barry.

One of my favourite memories is the Welsh Cup run of 1986-87; in the earlier rounds we played Cardiff Corries away. It was a 0-0 draw. I seem to remember Corries had a few chances to win the game. I was in college in North Wales at the time. So it was a short journey to see the Martyrs against Caernarfon Town in a scrappy 1-1 draw, and a dramatic penalty shootout win against Bangor City.  Of course, the unforgettable final v Newport and then of course the Atalanta game in the European Cup Winner Cup at the Park.

Other memories include in the conference years, a 3-3 draw with Kidderminster, the Martyrs were 3 down. All the goals were at the Park End which was still frozen after an overnight frost!  I remember a game against Macclesfield 1-1 at the Park when their goal keeper scored from a goal kick.

There have also been high profile friendlies v Red Star Belgrade, Celtic, and the Maltase National side. I remember the Red Star Game in which Belgrade had 2 players sent off.

Also in recent years, winning the South Western League and regaining our Southern League Premier status was more recent happy memories.

What a win on 15th Oct 2022 in the FA Cup! 2-1, in front of a raucous crowd at the Park. First Round of the FA Cup, here we come!

Some of my favourite players over the years include: Gordon Davies, Paul Caviel, Ray Pratt, David Webley, and Ian Traylor all terrific goal scorers. But my favourite player who was a rock in the defence was Chris Holvey.

I am currently living outside Merthyr but I make the pilgrimage to Penydarren Park whenever I can. So, support your local team. It is better than any soap opera.

Up the Town!

Gwyn Thomas and Merthyr Tydfil

by Daryl Leeworthy

In March 1955, on assignment with the Welsh Empire News, the novelist, playwright and television personality, Gwyn Thomas, turned his unique gaze to postwar Merthyr Tydfil. It was a rare outing for a writer more commonly associated with the Rhondda or with Barry, but Merthyr Tydfil had been the byword for poverty and neglect in the 1930s and so he was keen to see what, if anything, had changed. From the perspective of historians, the mid-1950s were a time of relative affluence, when the worst that could be said of Britain was that it was a bit damp, drab, and dismally grey. In place of mass unemployment, there were new factories – signature installations like Hoover at Pentrebach – and the population was rising again, albeit slowly, after three decades of decline. But, warned Gwyn, ‘South Wales is full of things that people forgot to sweep up’. Places, as well.

Gwyn Thomas in Pantywaun. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive.

A few years after that Empire News article was published, Gwyn was called back to the area. This time the request came from the BBC, who wanted him to give a piece to camera about the impending demolition of Pantywaun. The experience in 1962 formed the basis of a memorable passage in A Welsh Eye, in which Gwyn described the ‘liquidation’ of the village, the transfer of the remaining residents to council houses closer to Merthyr town, and the belated installation of a public call box ‘just in time for the villagers to tell their friends that they were leaving’.

Pantywaun was being sacrificed for the expansion of the ‘Royal Arms’ open cast site. This, it was said, was progress. In the view of older generations, it was the likely fate of all pit villages once their economic root had gone. As the slogan of the 1984-5 miners’ strike put it, ‘close a pit, kill a community’.

These visits were all part and parcel of broadcasting, of being an eminent public voice. Gwyn’s relationship with Merthyr Tydfil was older still, of course. His most important novel, the acknowledged masterpiece All Things Betray Thee published by Michael Joseph in 1949, was set in a fictionalised Merthyr. Christened in fiction as Moonlea, this was the Merthyr of the 1830s; the Merthyr of the unrest focused on the Court of Requests, of Dic Penderyn and Lewis the Huntsman, of Chartism and the campaign for a democratic voice. It was a place in which artists could sit and talk through grand political ideas, through the very tenets of philosophy that ought to have governed society but did not. Similar themes would emerge from Gwyn’s more anarchic play, Jackie the Jumper, first performed at the Royal Court Theatre in London in 1963.

Raymond Williams, the eminent writer and scholar, believed All Things Betray Thee to be the most important novel of the Welsh industrial tradition, capable of standing tall alongside its English or American or European counterparts but distinctively Welsh at the same time. During the Cold War, the novel was widely translated, notably into Russian, Polish, Bulgarian, and Romanian, bringing knowledge of Merthyr and its history to new audiences abroad.  Those very same audiences, of course, who understood the old joke, apparently invented by Gwyn A. Williams, that had Anna Karenina looked down from the train she would have seen ‘Made in Dowlais’ marked on the rails; or who understood the lineage connecting Stalino (now Donetsk) in Ukraine with Hughesovka and, of course, with Merthyr Tydfil itself.

We may ask what Gwyn Thomas knew of the 1830s, and how that knowledge had been acquired. In the 1930s, having graduated from Oxford University and unable to find stable, permanent work, Gwyn taught classes in industrial history for the Workers’ Educational Association in the Rhondda. This was the period when working-class history – the history of the coal valleys of Glamorgan and Monmouthshire – was first being written down and taught; when it was turned into self-styled pageants with input from national figures like Benjamin Britten and Montagu Slater; when it was made into literature by A. J. Cronin and Rhys Davies, at one level, and Lewis Jones and Richard Llewellyn at another, or turned into drama for production by companies like the Aberdare Little Theatre. But this history was not yet in the form of professional historiography of the sort we have come to expect from university-trained boffins, it was still framed by a social and political purpose. Ness Edwards, the leading local historian of the period, later the Labour MP for Caerphilly, wrote his small books and pamphlets above all to ignite passions. The same was true of poet Islwyn ap Nicholas.

But Gwyn Thomas stands out from this crowd and from those mythologisers who came after him, men like Harri Webb, because he did not fall for the romantic illusions contained in terms like ‘Merthyr Rising’. Instead, Gwyn’s act of rebellion was one of ideas, of art, of a people conscious of themselves and aware of their capacity for creative invention. He was using literature to write history – as the novel’s working title My Root on Earth suggested – encouraging the use of culture to define who weare as a people, and the use of historical truth to lend weight and veracity to it all. You see, in Gwyn’s mind Merthyr Tydfil was the root of industrial experience, the origins of an ‘American Wales’, as it might legitimately be called, and the Rhondda its great flowering. The two were indelibly linked: the Cain and Abel of our unique story.

There is an epilogue to all this aspect of Gwyn’s career involving the screenwriter Alan Plater who found in the Welshman an ebullient model, the man placed at the top of the Hullensian’s fantasy league of writers. In gratitude, Plater set about bringing two of Gwyn’s works onto radio and television. The first was the memoir, A Few Selected Exits, which aired on BBC television in 1993 with Anthony Hopkins in the title role. It won a Welsh BAFTA. The second was All Things Betray Thee which went out on Radio 4 in the spring of 1996. Plater tried for years to translate Gwyn’s writing for a contemporary broadcast audience. He succeeded, if only briefly, in the mid-1990s. Writing in the Independent newspaper in 1994, he lamented ‘the neglect of Gwyn Thomas since his death in 1981’ adding that ‘perhaps rough justice will be done, if we hang around long enough’. Now is the time to bring Gwyn Thomas to the heart of Welsh literature, I suggest, to understand at last the Fury of Past Time. We have waited far too long.

 

If you want to find out more about Gwyn Thomas, Daryl’s new biography of him has just been published and is available in all good bookshops, direct from Parthian, or an independent such as Storyville in Pontypridd.