Memories of Old Merthyr

We continue our serialisation of the memories of Merthyr in the 1830’s by an un-named correspondent to the Merthyr Express, courtesy of Michael Donovan.

We have now entered Dowlais – yes, to some extent, truly called dismal and dirty. No doubt it has redeeming traits, but from personal recollections I do not consider it had even the amenities that existed in Merthyr. It was, or seemed to be, more brusque, more aggrandising, but if Merthyr was truly a village in the early thirties, Dowlais was somewhat less. “Nothing extenuate, nor set down aught in malice” shall be my guide.

Up the brook a short way there was a brewery, erected by a Mr Powell of Abergavenny, whose father was a church dignitary there. The hill before us is steep, and the first road is one that doubles back in front of the Dowlais Inn, and then turns up to the right to the Dowlais Church, stables and on to the Ivor Works. This was kept by a James Henry, who went thence to keep another public house in Rhymney.

The Dowlais Inn. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

Keeping the coach road, another public house on the other side was the Vulcan. There were steps alongside down to the tramroad, and the lowest entrance gates into the works stood just there. Some short distance further there was another public house, whose name has slipped. It was, however, some four steps (nearly three feet) lower than the road. Mr David Williams and his aunt, Miss Teague, kept it awhile after leaving the Angel in Merthyr, but it was taken as the station of the railway from the Taff Vale, and used as such at the time.

Following this on the same side was a row of workmen’s cottages having their back to, but the ground floor much lower than the road. About six of what were then the best shops in the place being passed, the main entrance into the works and office was come to.

The shop nearest the entrance gates was, or had been, the old Company shop. It had, however, ceased to be carried on upon the truck system as far as can be recalled. A Mr Parnell was the manager, but there is some hazy idea of Mr Williams, the father of Mr Joshua Williams, of Aberdylais (sic), being connected with it. Mr Jenkins, the druggist, had a branch shop in the row; also a Mr D Lewis kept another druggist’s shop, and Mr Lewis, draper, of the London Warehouse, also had a branch. Immediately opposite to the entrance gates was the Bush Hotel, kept by Mr Richard Henry who had been a contractor in the works some years before.

The Bush Hotel in Dowlais c.1885. Photograph courtesy of the Alan George Archive

At the passing of the Reform Bill in 1832, Merthyr was made a borough, and privileged to send one member to Parliament. Sir John (then Mrs) Guest was returned, but he had previously been member for Honiton, and upon one occasion ordered a large number of pairs of boots and shoes there. They were dispatched to Dowlais to the company’s shop there, but Mr Parnell decline having anything to do with them. “He had not ordered them”, and knew nothing whatever about them.

Richard Henry was sent for to the office, he being then a contractor and having a great number of persons under him. “Dick I want you to sell a lot of boots and shoes for me” was said by Mr Guest. “Well, but master, I don’t want them, and how am I to pay for them?” was replied. “Oh that shall not trouble: you can pay when you sell the last pair”, was the rejoinder, and ‘Dick’ took them all but never sold the last pair. It is not possible to vouch for the strict accuracy of it, but I can vouch for having the narrative from Mr Richard Henry’s own lips.

To be continued….

Memories of Old Merthyr

We continue our serialisation of the memories of Merthyr in the 1830’s by an un-named correspondent to the Merthyr Express, courtesy of Michael Donovan.

Above Gillar Street there was no opening on the right hand side used as a thoroughfare until John Street (now part of the entrance to the railway station) was come to, and John Street was really a private road, for there was a door across near the Tramroad, which was often locked. Then on the same side, adjoining the premises of the Brecon Bank, was a narrow road leading to the Tramroad and Professional Row.

On the left hand side, after Three Salmons Street, was the Swan opening, now called Swan Street I believe, and, with the exception of an opening into a malthouse and back entrance of three or four houses, there was no other until the one at the post-office (Glebeland Street) was come to.

The market was held in Three Salmons Street, along the High Street for a part, and in the yard between the ironmonger’s shop (now Mr Wm. Griffiths’s) and the next shop above. In Three Salmons Street a Mr Kay kept a boot and shoe establishment. At the corner was a druggist’s kept by one Farley. Mr Walter Smyth afterwards took this place, and subsequently moved to next door above, but which was then a butcher’s shop kept by Mr Lewis Lewis, who was also a partner with Mr David Williams, Ynyscynon, in collieries in Aberdare.

The Cardiff and Merthyr Guardian – 9 May 1846

The next above was then, as now, an ironmonger’s kept by Job James who also had a business in Cardiff, then, I think, but am not quite sure, a saddler’s kept by Adney, then a draper’s, Mr William James, whose sobriquet of ‘Billy for Snuff’ was, no doubt, fully deserved. Mr Stephens (whose cottage in Mount Pleasant has been alluded to) also had a shop there, and Mr Daniel Thomas (a brother of Dr Thomas, of the Court) kept a leather and curriery business; while at the very corner, in a very small building, Francis Argust carried on boot and shoe making.

Crossing Swan Street, what is now the Court Arms was then the London Warehouse, kept by Mr Lewis; and above, in one of the three or four houses before coming to Mr James’s malthouse, Barclay and Perkins opened a place for the sale of their ales and stout.

The Bristol and West of England Bank was first opened in Merthyr in another of those houses. The manager at the opening was a Mr George Pearce. The Gable end of Mr James’s malthouse abutted on the High Street, an adjoining, standing back a couple of yards, was the residence of that gentleman. I have said ‘Billy for Snuff’, and it is but right to explain that it originated in his having his snuff (for High Dry and Queen’s were much in vogue) from Bristol by coach via the Passage near Chepstow rather than by slow sloop to Cardiff, and barge thence to Merthyr. No doubt it was kept freer from moisture as well as arriving earlier at its destination.

To be continued at a later date…..