Tag: High Street

The Italians in Merthyr Tydfil

By Carolyn Jacob

The story of modern Italian immigration began with a tide of economic migrants in the 19th century. The majority coming from the mountain villages of the North, often as seasonal workers walking overland to French ports. Gradually more stayed and either saved enough to bring their families here or married local women and started families here. They encouraged other family members and friends from their villages to join them in a classic pattern of chain migration. The 20th century saw another wave of immigration, predominantly from the South of Italy and Sicily. A significant number passed through London and branched out to establish communities in South Wales.

Charlie Speroni wrote that leaving the family farm and vineyards in Italy was a major upheaval. As a child in 1927 he arrived in Wales unable to speak a word of English but he was made to feel very welcome. As well as attending school he was expected to work in the family business. During the depression the family rented a fish and chip shop in Penydarren and Charlie was in full time employment working on the chip carts in the winter and the ice cream carts in the summer months. He worked in London for a few years but always returned to Merthyr. Charlie never returned again to Italy and said that “The sky may not be so blue in Wales, but the friendliness of its people make it home.”

Tom Protheroe standing with Mr. Speroni’s Ice Cream cart. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

The Galleozzie family are a Merthyr family! They have been living in Merthyr Tydfil for over 130 years, since Luigi moved here in the 1870s. Martyn Galleozzie, a former Welsh ABA featherweight champion in the 1970s was definitely Welsh.

Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

Dominico Basagelao arrived in South Wales in the early 1860s and finding himself in Pantywaun on a snowy winter’s evening he took lodgings with Mr and Mrs Thomas of the Royal Arms Public House. He found work in as a colliery in the South Tunnel Drift Mine. Although a poor Italian and a stranger, he married into the rich Jones (Ceffyl Gwyn) family who were Welsh speaking chapel people.  John Martin Basagelao born in 1868 became a wealthy man. He was the landlord of the Tredegar Arms and the former Red Lion public houses at Dowlais Top.

At the start of World War II Italian nationals were interned as enemy aliens, which many felt to be extremely harsh treatment as they themselves were fiercely  anti-Fascist. Just prior to the Second World War a number of Italian residents in the Borough decided that the time had come to make important decisions and a number made the big step of applying for and achieving British citizenship. Among their number was Giovanni  Bracchi from Troedyrhiw, Giovanni  and  Giuseppe Opel from Treharris and lastly Cesare  Cordani, Merthyr Tydfil  in April 1940.

From the 1880s the Berni family had a café in Pontmorlais, and then John Berni  had a temperance bar and high-class confectionery at 91 High Street.

The Berni Brothers’ Berni Inn at 13 Pontmorlais. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

Mr Barsi  was at one time an electric tram driver but later he ran a fish and chip shop in Penydarren. He was thankfully not interned during the Second World War, having served his adopted country well during the First in the Welsh Regiment.

Mr Barsi in his fish and chip shop at Matthias Terrace, Penydarren. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

The Provini’s came to Cefn Coed from Tredegar and kept the Corner Cafe for many years, there was the Provini fish-bar in Georgetown and they also kept the Wellington in Bethesda Street. Frank and Tony Viazzani  in the Station Café, John Street  were the ticket agents for all  local boxing tournaments and the  walls of the café are  still decorated  by many boxing photographs of Howard Winstone.

Porcine pranks

by Carolyn Jacob

In Reminiscences of Merthyr Tydfil by Charles Wilkins, Red Dragon Vol II Aug. – Dec 1882. He recalls the fun of his school boy days and one memory of a farmer who drove into the High Street a small group of very large pigs for sale. Weary of standing on a crowded road, the creatures laid themselves down in a closely packed manner which is peculiar to them upon large lapping cellars doors in front of a popular public house. Under their great weight the doors gave way and all the pigs were precipitated into the vaults below. The pigs quickly knocked over a barrel of beer and enjoyed its contents; they then overturned a number casks of beer, smashed jars of spirits and bottles of wine and altogether behaved themselves in an outrageous manner.  They were having such a good time that they refused all attempts to get them into the daylight again. Word got around and soon an excitable crowd gathered to watch the piggies’ pranks. The whole crowd helped to get the drunk pigs out into the fresh air again but they were so drunk that they had to be carried ‘home’.

My Dad Makes Sweets

by Tiffèny Davies (née Bray)

When I first started school, my teacher told my mother that I was the only one in my class who knew what their father did for a living!  “My Dad makes sweets!”, I’d said.   My mother told her, it was because I saw him at work, as the factory was in an old water mill, just off Merthyr Tydfil High Street, across the garden from our house and we would often pop in to see him on our way back from town.

My father at work in the factory

Frederick William Bray, my Great Grandfather, who established F W Bray and Sons, started his business in Glyn Terrace, Merthyr Tydfil.

F W Bray & Sons shop at Glyn Terrace. Photo courtesy of the Alan George archive

Frederick had a sweet factory at the back of the house and he would load his horse drawn cart full of jars of sweets and deliver to market traders as well as running his own stall in Aberdare market. In 1904, Frederick married, Mary Ann Vining, the daughter of a china merchant based on Pontmorlais who also had large china stalls in Merthyr and Dowlais Markets as well as a shop on Pontmorlais.

In 1934, Frederick and Mary Ann moved into Pontmorlais and established a sweet shop, continuing to make sweets in a building at the bottom of Old Mill Lane and eventually taking over the Old Mill that had, until then, been used by the Vining family in which to store China. The Vinings had bought the Old Mill in 1922 after the Millers failed to return from the First World War.

Frederick and Mary Ann had three children, Thomas, Sydney and Phyllis. Both sons joined the family business, becoming Master Sugar Boilers and also helped to deliver to all the small retail shops in the surrounding valleys.

During the Second World War my Grandfather, Thomas, served as a cook with the Royal Engineers while Sydney and Phyllis worked in the local munitions factory, which meant that there was little time for sweet making. I am told, that in order to keep up the supply of sweets, Mary Ann contacted the local Member of Parliament, S O Davies, on two occasions, to request Thomas’ return from the frontline. It is said that S O Davies would take a bag of sweets up to Parliament, to Winston Churchill’s War Cabinet.

F W Bray & Sons shop in Pontmorlais in the 1940s. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

In 1937, Thomas married Anne Berry Powell who had been working as a Night Sister in the General Hospital. After the war, they lived above their own sweet shop at Park Place, Merthyr Tydfil. While Thomas travelled the valleys, visiting the small shops, delivering and taking orders, Sydney made sweets.

When I was born in March 1963, my Father, Fred Bray, was already working in the well-established sweet making business which employed around 25 people; in the factory, the shop on Pontmorlais, market stalls in Merthyr and Aberdare as well as a newsagents on Glebeland Street, Merthyr.

F W Bray & Sons stall at Merthyr Market. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

They manufactured a range of hard boiled sweets, as well as whole sale and retail of ranges from across the confectionary spectrum. Sales representatives from brands such as Cadbury’s, Taveners, Rountrees, Walkers, Milady and even the man from Mars, were frequent visitors. To a young child, it was really exciting to be around when a travelling sales representative was visiting, they always had a case full of colourful delights out of which I might be handed a sample to try.  Sometimes there would even be promotional toys – I acquired a clockwork dalek, cuddly chipmunk (that advertised chipmunk crisps) and even a digital watch that came with Bazooka bubblegum!   I remember being closely watched as I sampled a packet of popping and fizzing, space dust which I thought was great fun and, on another occasion, Uncle Sid handed me a packet of Wotsits, that he’d been sampling, before dashing to the sink to wash out the gooey mess from his false teeth!  Needless to say, the Wotsits were a hit with the kid, and the sales representative got an order!

It would be all hands on deck to unload deliveries from the lorries of large companies and stock our warehouse ready for distribution to shops across the valleys. Our adverts read “Home Made Sweets with Glucose – Good For You!”  We had a burgundy coloured Commer van, emblazoned with the family name – F W Bray and Sons – kitted out with shelves to hold the glass sweet jars and boxes, that my Grandfather, Thomas, used for deliveries to all the small shops, all over the valleys.   As a child, it was always a novelty to sit, up front, with him in the “big van”.

The advent of the supermarket eventually meant that confectionary was being sold cheaper by them than we could buy directly from the manufacturer and, as a result the wholesale of other brands dwindled. Focus shifted to the Bray’s lines and links with the National Museum of Wales, doing sweet making demonstrations at events and fairs.

My mother and father demonstrating sweet making

As I grew older, I have memories of helping in the factory, washing jars, pasting labels, mixing the Braymix and adding colour and flavour to the sherbet. During one school summer holiday, I even operated the cut and twist wrapping machine. I sat for hours, putting sweets into holes and watching them go round, the machine picking up our branded cellophane, chopping it and spinning pincers twisting the ends before dropping them down a shute into a tray. I must say, the novelty quickly wore off!

Although, my Father told us to break away from the business, we could not help but be drawn in and we did get involved, especially when it was all hands on deck! I nagged my Father to allow me to work as Saturday staff and my sister, Fiona and I worked in the Merthyr Market Stall, my brother, Jason, who had a morning paper round, occasionally helped out in the shop on Pontmorlais.

Until 1994, when my Parents retired, they ran the business together, changing the structure to sweet making and travelling to events in order to do demonstrations, at mostly Welsh Heritage Sites. The wholesale business, shops and stalls were now gone. The watermill that used to store china, and then became a sweet factory, is now a garage.

My parents Fred and Pam Bray

My father always said that the sweet making business would end with him and advice was to break away. On the 8 of September 2024 at my brother, Jason’s installation as Dean of Llandaff Cathedral, I remember those words, and how things have worked out. The business did end when my father retired in 1994 and he handed machinery to St Fagans Welsh National Museum of History and his recipes, glass jars and labels handed to relatives in Bray’s of Cardiff. I sometimes see some of our lines of hard boiled sweets in the supermarket and Bray’s sweets were sold at St Fagans from the original glass jars with our labels.

Me at St Fagans

A New Fire Station

The article transcribed below appeared in the Merthyr Express 100 years ago today.

MERTHYR’S FIRE STATION.

OPENING OF NEW BUILDING AND MEDICAL COMFORTS DEPOT.

On Thursday afternoon the Mayor of Merthyr (Coun. F. A. Phillips), in the presence of a large number of local ladies and gentlemen, opened the new Fire Station for the Borough, which is erected on a site adjoining the Central Police Station, the cost of which was about £1,800. Accommodation is provided on the ground floor for the fire engine and the police ambulance car. The first floor will be used as a recreation room, and this has been equipped and furnished out of the Police Athletic Club’s funds. The third floor has been fitted up as a medical comforts’ department under the Merthyr Centre of the St. John Ambulance Brigade.

A number of the nurses were present wearing their uniform, under the supervision of Mr. D. M. Davies, the Chief Constable, who is also the Commissioner the Merthyr Centre of the St. Johns Ambulance Brigade; Miss Williams, the supt.; and Mr. Harry Jones the corps supt. The Mayor, who was accompanied by Mrs. Phillips, the Mayoress, was supported by members and officials of the Corporation; Lady Herbert Lewis, O.B.E. of Cardiff, who later opened the medical comforts’ department; and Miss Herman, of the Priory of Wales.

A large and interested crowd of spectators assembled outside the fire station, and before the opening ceremony the Brigade gave a demonstration of how promptly they can act in case of a call being received. The fire bell sounded, the large doors swung open, and the motor fire engine, fully manned, darted out of the station and stopped just outside the entrance to the market. At the same moment another door was opened, and the ambulance car, fully manned, left the other department, and made its way to High Street. Inspector J. Lamb was in charge of the Brigade.

The Chief Constable was Master of Ceremonies and after this interesting demonstration he asked Mr. Edmund Rees (the architect) to present the Mayor with a miniature fireman’s axe, and the key with which to formally open the building. The Mayor unlocked the large doors amid applause, and Ald. W. Burr, the Deputy-Mayor, unlocked the doors of the ambulance entrance amid a similar demonstration.

The Mayor said: I congratulate the Architect (Mr. T. Edmund Rees) and all others concerned for this beautiful structure just opened. For many years this part of the building has not been used owing to its unsuitability for any purpose. The ground upon which it stands is freehold, and is the property of the Corporation. This beautiful fire station will greatly add to the efficiency of the Fire Brigade, being attached to the Police Station itself, and only a few yards from the firemen’s bedrooms. Heating apparatus will be fixed later, and a certain temperature can be maintained throughout the winter, whereas now in the fire station just vacated it is almost a matter of impossibility to start a horse-power engine during the winter months owing to the low temperature, with a consequent loss of valuable time; and the most valuable time at a fire is the first few minutes alter the discovery the outbreak. (Applause)

The Chief Constable’ s two pretty little daughters then presented beautiful bouquets to Lady Lewis and the Mayoress.

Inside the building the Mayoress (Mrs. Phillips) was presented by P.S. Edward Jones, Chairman of the Police Athletic Club, with a pair of silver scissors with which to cut a ribbon at the foot of the staircase leading to the recreation room, where she subsequently unveiled a framed memorial to six policemen who were killed in the Great War. The Memorial was dedicated by the Rector of Merthyr, the Rev. J. Richards-Pugh, R.D., and the “Last Post” was sounded by P.C. F. Standard, one of four brothers who are members of the Merthyr Force, and who went through the war.

The Mayor said: As Chairman of the Watch Committee, I are very pleased that at long lost the members of our Police Force have a club room for their own use. Hitherto the only room at their disposal was the messroom downstairs, which will only hold about a dozen. This messroom was used for breakfast room, dining room, supper room, etc.; and all games and meetings of necessity had to be held there. In appreciation of the provision of this club room the Police themselves purchased this billiard table, the beautiful and appropriate pictures which you see on that wall; the War Memorial in memory of their comrades who fell in the Great War; and the clock—costing altogether £103.0s.6d. this beautiful memorial was executed throughout by Mr. E. A. Gilbert, of Rhymney, a postman; and I must congratulate him on his work. Mr. Gilbert is well known throughout the lend, and especially at the Royal Academy, where he was awarded prizes for similar work; also at National Eisteddfodau. The names you see on it are those of highly respected officers of our Police Force. Four of them belonged to the “Old Contemptibles”, viz.: Tom Evans, Stubbs, Leonard and Clarke. Lovis and Morgan were volunteers, and they joined the Army in 1915. It may interest you to know that 47 members of our Police Force served during the Great War, leaving 40 behind to “keep the home fires burning.” The Police. out of their own feeds, gave the dependents of the six men who did not come back £50 each. (Applause.)

Lady Lewis then formally opened the medical comforts’ department, and was presented with a silver key by Miss Williams, the Lady supt. of the Nursing Division.

Among others who took part in the proceedings were Ald. F. Pedler, Councillors Isaac Edwards, F. T. James, H. M. Lloyd, David Parry, B. J. Williams, Miss C. Jones (Matron of Mardy Hospital) and Miss Templeman (Supt. Nurse of the Merthyr Infirmary).

Coun. Parry proposed, and Coun. B. J. Williams seconded a vote of thanks to the Mayor for opening the building; Coun. F. T. James moved a similar compliment to the Mayoress, which Coun. H. M. Lloyd seconded; and Miss C. Jones, matron of Mardy Hospital, moved a vote of thanks to Lady Lewis, which was seconded by Miss Templeman, of the Merthyr Infirmary.

Refreshments were afterwards partaken of, and the interesting ceremony will be a memorable day in the history of the local police force.

– Merthyr Express 4 July 1925

Merthyr Central Police Station (left) and Fire Station shortly before demolition. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive
A Fire Engine outside the Fire Station in 1932. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

Harvey Boots

by Phil Sweet

“For thirty years Mr. Boots associated himself with every progressive movement in the town and was a zealous and active worker in every good cause.”

This comment, which appeared in the Merthyr Express of November 10th 1923 in an article describing the occasion to honour Mr. Boots that was held three days earlier at the Belle Vue Hotel aptly sums up the contribution to the cultural and civic life of the Borough in the last decade of the Nineteenth and first two decades of the Twentieth Century by H. Harvey Boots.

Born in Aberbeeg and the brother of Welsh Rugby international, George Boots, Boots would embark on a career as a dentist. After being articled to Mr. Gill Williams of Newport Harvey Boots came to Merthyr in 1891 as an assistant to Mr. Musgrove with whom he completed his articles. After gaining further experience as a dentist in Croydon, Southsea and Bristol, Boots returned to Merthyr in 1896 and opened his own dental practice in the High Street.

Aside from his career as a dentist Harvey Boots made a valuable and pioneering contribution to the sporting life of the town. Initially his focus was on the rugby field where he turned out for both Merthyr Thursdays and Merthyr RFC, serving as chairman of the latter organisation whilst still turning out as player.

Boots also served as the first chairman of the Merthyr Athletic Club which had leased Penydarren Park from the Bolgoed Estate and was responsible for converting the site into a sporting arena. With the demise of the rugby union club Boots switched his attention to Merthyr Town AFC becoming their first chairman of directors. A true sporting all-rounder, Boots was also a keen bowls player and golfer being a member of first the Morlais and later the Cilsanws golf clubs, while he was also in great demand as an MC for whist drives.

Away from the sporting sphere Harvey Boots was a keen horticulturalist serving as vice-chairman of the Merthyr Horticultural Society and winning many prizes for his carnations while he also found the time to take an active interest in the Scout Movement in the town.

During the Great War although he was unable to volunteer for the armed forces Boots served as a special constable in the Borough and acted as honorary dentist to the Knighton Red Cross Hospital and travelled to Knighton every week free of charge and at his own expense to attend to wounded soldiers sent home from the front, actions which led to him receiving the diploma of the Red Cross & St. John Society.

In addition to the above Harvey Boots also played a prominent and active part in the public life of the town. After the Great War he was elected as the first chairman of the newly formed Merthyr Ratepayers Association. A lifelong member of the Constitutional Party Boots was one of the original members of the Constitutional Club in Thomastown. Furthermore, he was a devoted churchgoer serving as a sidesman in St. David’s Church and secretary of the Parochial Quota Fund.

A married man with two daughters Boots left Merthyr in the summer of 1923 for Great Yarmouth where he had purchased a large dental practice in the hope that the sea air would prove to be more beneficial for his health.

Over the next few months, various articles written by Harvey Boots will appear in this blog.

Notes on Post War Developments on the Merthyr Tydfil High Street

by Carolyn Jacob

After World War II more street lights were powered by gas than electricity.  Electricity was then supplied by the Merthyr Electric Traction and Lighting Co. Ltd  and gas mainly by the Dowlais Gas Company and the Merthyr Tydfil Gas Company.

High Street Sewers

From the 1850s onwards the Board of Health continually argued as to how a High Street sewer was to be paid for and how to clean up certain problem areas such as Caedraw.

The drainage of the High Street was a problem as the town had no means of proper drainage. Mr. Hill said that sewers were made large for the purpose of admitting men and boys to clean them and that he would prefer draining the worst localities in the town first, especially those which had been afflicted with cholera like Caedraw.

Caedraw in the early 1900s. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

Merthyr Tydfil had a 100 miles of sewers varying in diameters between 9 inches and 30 inches. In 1946  a new main sewer was built from Dowlais to Troedyrhiw, the trunk mains in the upper part of the Borough being defective and inadequate. It was proposed to broaden the whole of the old High Street.

In 1949  Trystan Edwards (left), father of the New Towns Movement and opposed to  tower blocks became the architect for Merthyr Council. His classic book on ‘Style and Design in Architecture’ by Mr Trystan Edwards’ of Merthyr Tydfil was published in 1950. Mr Trystan Edwards who had a high reputation as a town planner and architect made 3 objections in September 1952 to the new Merthyr Tydfil Development Plan. It seems that as early as 1905  a new Town Hall was on the cards and he objected to its proposed position and not a new building itself.

Caedraw Central Housing Development

In the 1960s came the new Caedraw flat scheme at a cost of £540,000. The new police station was officially opened in April 1965 by James Griffiths, the Secretary of State for Wales. He  said the development had transformed the area from an over-crowded slum to an ultra modern residential area ‘ bold and imaginative’ as he had a conducted tour of the estate.

Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

St Tydfil’s Shopping Centre

The bridge from the St Tydfil’s Shopping Centre to the car park constructed 1969 was the first of its kind  300 foot  cost £55,000  to build. Gareth Morgan a ten year old boy from Dowlais received a prize of £25 for naming the one and a half million new  shopping centre St Tydfil’s. All 80 suggested names were connected with the history of the town and variations of the name Winstone  were common. The centre developed by Chesterfield Properties Ltd  included 48 shopping units, 2 supermarkets, a market hall, one large departmental store, public house, entertainments centre, 25 maisonettes and office accommodation.

St Tydfil’s Shopping Centre in the 1970s. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

The Market Square Chapel was demolished.

In July 1966 the Eagle Hotel was completely renovated and modernised throughout. The landlord and land lady were Mr and Mrs Parry.

Oldway House, Castle Street was begun in 1966 by Oldway Properties Ltd. as part of the new Merthyr  and took 13  months to complete. The building itself was a frame structure.

Oldway House during construction. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

The new central Police Station cost £150,000 in Swan Street was completed 1968, it was only a 75 yard move from the old Merthyr Police Station at Graham Street.

Police Station in Swan Street. Courtesy of Mansell Richards

Victoria Street clearance 1966

In the 1970s it was decided that the High Street  was extremely congested and it was unsafe for pedestrians  and it was decided in the 1970s that there ought to be  a traffic-free shopping centre. The High Street became a haven of peace and quiet in  September 1976. The Welsh Office gave a grant of  £103,725  to take the traffic out of the High Street  This ring road was to get the traffic out of the High Street

In 1988 the shops and offices in the High Street in Pontmorlais were treated to a facelift under a commercial improvement scheme. A car park and flower beds were created at the junction with Bethesda Street.

‘A past, a tradition, an experience in space and time we seem hellbent on bulldozing away … A man who loses his memory is half a man … A man who destroys his won memory is a madman’.

From an address given by Professor Gwyn  Alf Williams to the first meeting of the Merthyr Tydfil Civic Society.