Festive Commercial Break
Tag: Dowlais
Beer on a Sunday
From the Evening Express 120 years ago today….
Mildred Lewis – the Welsh Nightingale
by J Ann Lewis
Mildred Lewis, known as the ‘Welsh Nightingale’ due to her beautiful soprano voice, was born in 1911 in White Street, Dowlais. Her voice was trained to perfection under the tuition of the well-known musician W. J. Watkins, and his advice helped form her singing career.
Her father, a miner in Fochriw, sang with the Dowlais Male Voice Choir, and both her mother and brother, Gilbert, were gifted singers. Living in this environment, she was taught to read music as a child, but Mildred had little formal schooling due to contracting Tubercular Hip at the age of five. She walked with the aid of sticks for the rest of her life, but it never stopped her singing at the ‘Penny Readings’ or the Eisteddfodau.
Whilst competing at the City Hall, Cardiff, she was heard by Mae Jones, Head of Variety at the BBC, and was invited to sing for them, performing on a regular basis for many years, at one time singing with Kathleen Ferrier. She also won the National Eisteddfod in 1938.
Mildred married steel worker Gwynne Lewis in 1935. Many musical evenings were held at her home at Francis Terrace, Pant, when many friends joined her, and the late Glynne Jones, Musical Director of the Pendyrus Male Choir would often accompany their singing.
As a member of E.N.S.A. (Entertainments National Service Association), she travelled around Britain during the Second World War, helping boost the morale of the troops. After the war, she took a job at Teddington’s Factory, and following the death of her husband in 1958, she lived alone for two years until her niece, Dyfanwen, moved in with her following the early death of her parents.
Mildred spent her later years at Ty Bryn Sion, and, when well enough, continued to sing at local chapels. She passed away in August 1993.
Death of an Auctioneer
From the Evening Express 110 years ago today (29 August 1910)….
The Morlais Brook – part 1
by Clive Thomas
It was not until September 1968 that I first became acquainted with ‘The Stinky’, the name given to the Morlais Brook by past generations of children and adults who lived along its banks.
Not being a Merthyr boy I was really unaware of its existence, let alone details of its course and history. Where I lived in Troedyrhiw we had the River Taf across the fields of Bill Jones’ farm and our only brook was an old Hill’s Plymouth Collieries’ watercourse which drained numerous disused mountainside coal levels. Despite its origins, the water was clear and clean, drinkable, dammed in the summer holidays, paddled and bathed in. When bored or just at a loose end we raced empty Bondman tobacco tins along its course, running to keep up with the flow and ensure that our own particular tin wasn’t held up by a fallen branch or trapped in an inconvenient eddy. On first encounter I couldn’t imagine any of those activities taking place along ‘The Stinky’ and my initial observations confirmed that its local name was not in any way exaggerated. Indeed, the name appropriately characterised some of its more sinister and less praiseworthy qualities.
The stretch I first got to know was, what a student of physical geography would term, the stream’s ‘Old Age’, that is the portion towards the end of its life. Indeed, one might say at its very death, for union with the parent Taf was imminent and in 1968 the confluence of the two was observable, not as now concealed beneath a highway and pedestrian pathway. To the south of the stream were some of the streets and courtways of the town, many of which were derelict and already marked as candidates for slum clearance. Within two or three years these would be swept away. Rising up from its northern bank was the huge tip of waste produced over a century earlier by the Penydarren Ironworks, its industrial waste concealed for the most part by surprisingly lush vegetation. The British Tip, as it was sometimes known, took its name from the British and Foreign Bible Society, founders of the academy which graced its summit. On its plateau top was a once grand construction, a building of a century’s age but which in many respects had seen better times. Abermorlais, the school’s official name, was most appropriate, as it proclaimed its location, at the union of Taf and Nant Morlais. Unfortunately, there was to be seen no evidence in the stream here of a course well run, more confirmation of ill use, where Sixties’ waste and detritus continued to be added to over a century’s massive abuse. A sad end indeed to what no doubt had once been in pre-industrial times a clear and unspoilt mountain stream.
Perhaps though, to gain a more comprehensive appreciation of the stream’s course, it is probably better to follow the guidance of another Thomas, and “begin at the beginning”.
Nant Morlais forms from numerous small tributaries on the slopes of Twynau Gwynion and Cefnyr Ystrad on the 560 metre contour above Pantysgallog and Dowlais. In a distance of seven and a half kilometres it descends 440 metres to its confluence with the Taf. It’s not easy walking country with the gently dipping beds of Millstone grit overlying the Carboniferous Limestone. The surface is rough with ankle breaking rocks and many sink holes to topple into. Among many, but by far the largest of these is Pwll Morlais, a deep and supreme example of what happens where the underlying Limestone has been eroded and the grit collapses into the void. Depending on the season this can be a steep sided, empty peat banked hole or after heavy rain, full to overflowing with a brew of brown froth. The song of the skylark can be enjoyed here on a fine summer day but it is also a solitary place, disconcerting or eerie even, when mist or low cloud descends and the lone walker is surprised by the frantic cry of a disturbed snipe.
On a clear day the view to the south is the trough of the Taf Valley. Always viewed into the sun so never really clear, with only silhouettes, shadows and reflections to give a hint of detail. One wonders how different it would have looked when all of the works below would have been at their height?
From Pwll Morlais, the stream is called Tor-Gwyn by the Ordnance Survey, until its junction with another parallel tributary, and thereafter it becomes Nant Morlais proper. The stream’s descent is gentle to begin with over the hard resistant gritstone. It is along this stretch that there is much evidence of the importance placed on the brook as a source of water power for the rapidly growing Dowlais Works during the early part of the nineteenth century. There are still the remains of sluices and numerous places where the course has been altered, or feeders led its water off to be stored in numerous hillside reservoirs.
Where one of these diversions fed the extensive but now dry Pitwellt Pond above Pengarnddu, the Brook leaves the Millstone Grit and begins to cut a deep gorge into the softer Coal Measure rocks. From here there is more urgency in its flow, its course becomes narrower and more confined. At several locations it caused railway builders of the past to pause and consider the inconvenience of its course which would necessitate the construction of embankments and small bridges. The line which took limestone to the ironworks at Rhymney crossed hereabouts, as did the Brecon and Merthyr Railway on its way north over the Beacons and the London and North Western on its descent into Merthyr Tydfil via the ‘Miler’ or Morlais Tunnel.
More significantly however, it is within this section of the stream that geologists have been able to discover some of the secrets of the South Wales Coalfield and probably many hundreds of school pupils, university students, and local amateur geologists will have benefitted from the instruction of teachers like Ron Gethin, Tom Sharpe or John Perkins. Like myself on many occasions I am sure, they have stumbled down its steep banks into the course of the stream below Blaen Morlais Farm in search of Gastriocerassubcranatum or Gastriocerascancellatum . Not valuable minerals these, but the important fossils which would indicate the location of one or other of the marine bands which were significant in determining the sequence of sedimentation of the rocks generally, and the coal seams in particular.
To be continued…..
Co-operative Stores for Bedlinog
The article transcribed below appeared in the Merthyr Express 110 years ago today (16 July 1910).
CO-OPERATIVE STORES FOR BEDLINOG
OPENING CEREMONY
The Dowlais Co-operative Society opened their first branch establishment on Thursday week at Bedlinog. The opening ceremony was performed by Mr. Hugh Jones, Dowlais (chairman of the parent Society), in the presence of a good gathering of delegates from other Co-operative Societies in Glamorganshire and Monmouthshire, and local members. Mr. Jones, who was presented with a silver key by the builder (Mr. Horace J Davies, of Bargoed), congratulated the architect, the contractor, and the Bedlinog members upon the erection of the handsome and spacious building they were opening that day. Forty delegates sat down to luncheon, after which congratulatory speeches were delivered by the Chairman, the Contractor (Mr. H. J. Davies), Mr. T. Andrews, J.P., and other representatives.
In the evening a large gathering took place in front of the shop, and Mr. H. Jones presided. The Chairman, in opening the meeting, explained the objects of the co-operative movement. The idea of organization for the sake of profit-sharing was scouted, and the idea of service emphasised. The provision of good, wholesome food, suitable clothing, and other necessaries at reasonable prices regulated their conduct. Some object to Co-operative Societies taking up trade, holding that it was the province of individuals. Under the individual system, the idea of service vanished, and the accumulation of profits loomed largely, to such an extent that in order to swell their profits, adulteration of goods has been resorted to, and the Government has been compelled to legislate to check the evil. The private trader must now sell margarine as margarine, and not as butter.
Humane conditions of employment for men and women was another object of the movement. Under private traders, human beings were mere machines, utilised for accumulating wealth for their masters, shop assistants and apprentices were subjected to inhuman conditions in the form of low wages, an insanitary living-in system, bad food, and impositions. Co-operation, Trade Unionism, and the Labour movement are proceeding on parallel lines with the same objects in view, of securing for the industrial classes their fair share of the wealth they labour to produce and distribute, and by so doing reduce to a great extent the unnecessary suffering and poverty which exists.
Mr. T. Andrews congratulated the Society upon its courage and enterprise, and exhorted the Bedlinog people to respond in a like spirit. He urged greater loyalty on the part of existing members, and invited others to join the movement. Let them adopt, like the Jews of old, the policy of transmitting to their offspring the spirit of faithfulness. This movement, which was started in a small way, had by today assumed huge proportions. Its branches were spread all over the land. Hardly a town existed in this land but had its co-operative society, and in some towns the movement was powerful. It was one of the most powerful movements recorded in the history of human activity. Its trade was immense. It was the greatest trading concern in the world. It produced boots; it manufactured cloth and cotton, and made clothes and dresses. It possessed several flour mills, soap and candle and chemical works, jam and pickle factories, tea gardens, cocoa, coffee, and sugar plantations. creameries, orchards, and gardens. It had established convalescent homes and subscribed large sum of money annually to hospital and other charitable purposes.
Councillor John Davies (miners’ agent), Dowlais, urged all Trade Unionists to become members. The co-operative movement, he said, was the twin sister of Trade Unionism. It was the bounden duty of every Trade Unionist to become a co-operator, because this movement sought to secure for workers fair conditions of labour; good, wholesome food to sustain them good clothes to protect and adorn them; and a just share of the wealth they produced and distributed. This movement assisted all classes of workers.
Inspector John Edwards, Dowlais, advised all to join the Society. It was a movement started by workers and carried on by them. The Society was started by railwayman, but all classes of people were admitted. Mr. W. Payne, Dowlais, also spoke, and at the close of the meeting the Chairman invited non-members to join the Society, which can be done by paying an entrance fee of one shilling.
The architect of the premises was Mr. Springall, of the Co-operative Wholesale Architects’ Department, Manchester, and the contractor Mr. Horace Davies, Bargoed; and both gentlemen have given every satisfaction in the carrying out of the work. During the afternoon, tea was provided, and a large number of adults and children sat at the tables. The Bedlinog members and their children had free tickets, while non-members paid sixpence each, and the children threepence each.
Merthyr’s Lost Landmarks: St John’s Church, Penydarren
by Laura Bray
St John’s Church, Penydarren, has been a local landmark for 150 years. It was built in 1858 on what was then the edge of Penydarren and over the years its fortunes have waxed and waned; now it is not a church at all, but flats.
The original church was designed by a Mr Brigden of Dowlais and was constructed of patterned stone rubble, with the north entrance under a stone gable. However, with 40 years it had fallen into disrepair and was too small for the growing community which it served, so a concerted fundraising effort was embarked upon to rebuild it. The vicar, the Rev D Evans, realised that the church also needed a hall, but because of the topography of the site, this needed to be underneath the church, which doubled the cost. But the vision became a reality in 1907 when the Bishop of Llandaff laid the foundation stone, and then dedicated the new building on 10 October 1908.
The church was designed by the architect Mr Bruce Vaughan, in the Early English style, with faced stonework, arches and windows of red Ruabon brick and 5 light traceried windows. It boasted a nave of 65′ 6″ long by 28′ wide, with two aisles, a south chapel, chancel and choir vestry and could now hold nearly 600 worshippers. The church hall was of similar proportions, with facilities for classrooms.
Not surprisingly such grandeur came at a cost – estimated as £6500, over £750,000 in today’s money, no small achievement.
But as mentioned, such are the vagaries of fortune and while St John’s remained a functioning church, its fabric was gradually neglected over the ensuing decades. Fast forward to the late 1970s and the Rev Bill Morgan took over and began another restoration project, giving the building a much needed facelift and putting in new stained-glass windows. It was rededicated by Bishop John Poole Hughes in the early 1980’s. Lamentably, the church never really recovered its former grandeur and as the 21st century began, the church was slowly closed and boarded up before being sold in 2009 and subsequently demolished.
Merthyr’s Chapels: Radcliffe Hall, Penydarren
The next chapel we are going to look at is Radcliffe Hall Forward Movement Methodist Chapel in Penydarren.
In 1901, members of Hermon and Libanus Chapels in Dowlais started meeting in Penydarren Boys School, and started a Sunday School in the long room of The New Inn, Penydarren.
By 1902 numbers had grown sufficiently for the congregation to build their own chapel. Three cottages were purchased at a cost of £550, and converted into a meeting place which they called Samaria.
On 28 December 1903 Rev E R Jones of Machynlleth was inducted as the new minister. With the advent of the new minister the congregation flourished and it became obvious that a new place of worship was needed. A new building designed by Messrs Habbershon & Faulkner of Cardiff was built by Mr Samuel Evans of Dowlais at a cost of £2,344.
At the stone laying ceremony on 15 December 1904, Mr W Henry Radcliffe the owner of an important shipping company in Cardiff, and a prominent member of the Forward Movement contributed £100 pounds to the building fund. Radcliffe was born in Dowlais and had lived for a time near the site of the new Chapel. In recognition of his generosity it was decided that the new chapel would be called Radcliffe Hall.
On 3 September 1908 the elders of the chapel decided that the cause should become an English cause, and as a result, on 25 October 1908 Rev E R Jones gave his last sermon and announced his resignation due to a combination of ill health and not being happy with the change to an English cause.
During the spring of 1913, the congregation at Radcliffe Hall faced a dispute with the owners of a new cinema which planned to be built next door to the chapel. A committee was set up to oppose the scheme, and every other chapel in Penydarren rallied to support Radcliffe Hall. Due to the public support for the chapel, the committee won their case and the cinema, The Cosy, was eventually built further along the High Street.
Radcliffe Hall closed in 1964 and the building was destroyed by fire in 1976.
Memories of Old Merthyr
We continue our serialisation of the memories of Merthyr in the 1830’s by an un-named correspondent to the Merthyr Express, courtesy of Michael Donovan.
We must, however, return to the Canton Tea Shop opposite Castle Street, and keep up that side of the road. There were but few shops on that side, the majority being cottages. There was no opening through to the tram road, but courts of some kind existed. The large chapel (Pontmorlais Chapel) was building or about being finished, and next above was a coal yard of the Dowlais Company, chiefly for the supply of coal to their own workmen. Mr John Roberts had charge there, I should say, perhaps, that the coal was brought down by the old tramroad, and there was a short branch into the yard from it.
Some ten or a dozen cottages intervened between the cottage of the coal yard and the one that projected towards the road. This had a few poplar trees around it, and was years after, I cannot say how long previously, occupied by Mr Morgan, a stone and monumental mason, now in business on Brecon Road.
On the upper side of this was an opening to the tramroad, which was not above 80 or 100 feet from the High Street, and then a painter and glazier’s shop kept by Mr Lewis, who afterwards removed a short distance into the Brecon Road, and the shop became that of a saddler (Powell by name). Adjoining this was the Morlais Castle Inn, of which Mr & Mrs Gay were the host and hostess. Mr E. R. Gay, the dentist, of High Street, is the youngest, and it is thought, the only survivor of the family, which consisted of three boys and two girls.
A narrow shop intervened and the turnpike gate was reached. Only a few yards beyond a cast iron bridge spanned the Morlais Brook. On the left a person named Miles lived. His son, Dr Miles, increased its size and subsequently practised there.
One road now leads off to Dowlais, and the other towards Brecon Road, or as it was generally called, the Grawen, but immediately in front is a wall 10 or 12 feet high there, but as the road on either side ascends is tapered down on both sides. The old Tramroad from the Dowlais and Penydarren Works to their wharves on the Canal side near Pontstorehouse ran over this embankment, and a cottage nestling in the trees there was occupied by Mr Rees Jones. No other residence of this kind existed on the Penydarren Park except the house itself and its three lodges. At one time there were some steps leading up to the Park near the turning and junction of roads, one going to the Grawen and the other going to Pontstorehouse, but that gap was built up, and the only public entrance then became that close to the Lodge in Brecon Road by the pond.
To be continued at a later date……
Merthyr Memories: The Last Days of Old Dowlais
Some of my fondest childhood memories are the frequent trips I would go on to Dowlais with my aunty.
This would have been in the 1970s when Dowlais was undergoing what was officially called ‘redevelopment’, but which most people would call total devastation. At the time, of course, I was too young to understand the full implications of what was going on – I was just too fascinated by the ‘tractors’ as I called them……I had a fascination with ‘tractors’, and I had quite a few Tonka toys of diggers, cranes etc. Little did I know then the havoc these were causing and the vast amount of history that was being casually swept away.
My aunty, who had lived most of her life in Penydarren, had visited Dowlais just as much as she would have visited Merthyr when the former was in its hey-day. Dowlais, then, had everything – cinemas, banks, shops of every description – everything anyone would need for everyday life. By the 1970s however, most of these had gone, and only a few buildings and businesses held on for dear life as the bulldozers slowly worked their way up Union Street. Yet, my aunty would still do what she could in Dowlais.
I remember that we would catch the bus up to Dowlais – we’d go regularly as my aunty would go to ‘pay the coal’ in a business, if I remember correctly, in Church Row. We’d walk up past the Co-op, never the other side of the road…..I didn’t like walking past the steeple of St John’s Church – it frightened me!!! I remember the adverts in the window for various things, and also the posters advertising ‘Co-op stamps’.
Sometimes, after ‘paying the coal’, we would go around the corner to see the then derelict Dowlais Stables and my aunty would tell me all about Josiah John Guest and the Ironworks and about Lady Charlotte opening a school there. Other times we would call into Dowlais Library for her to change her books, and she would chat with David Watkins the marvellous librarian there whilst I looked at the books in the ‘Children’s Library’.
We would also call into one or two of the few shops that were remaining. I particularly remembering going to the shop of Mr Segar’s – the watch and clock repairer in North Street, and be fascinated by all the different clocks around the place. Another shop we would always visit was Crynogwyn’s – the dressmaker in Union Street. This was simply because Crynogwyn or ‘Aunty Cryn’ was an ‘honorary Aunty’. My father, had worked with Cryn’s husband Jack on the railway for many years, and they were very close friends. Cryn was a tiny, gentle, very quietly spoken lady with jet-black hair, and she was one of the finest seamstresses in Dowlais.
After we had finished all we had to do in Dowlais, we would catch the bus home from outside Ferrari’s Café. If I had been very good (and of course I always was), we would go into Ferrari’s and I would have a cup of hot chocolate as a special treat.
These were simple things, but they still remain fresh in my memory. St John’s Church, Dowlais Stables and the Library are all still there, but everything else has gone – swept away in the name of progress. Redevelopment or vandalism? You decide.