80 years ago today……
Tag: Cyfarthfa Park
Memories of Old Merthyr
We continue our serialisation of the memories of Merthyr in the 1830’s by an un-named correspondent to the Merthyr Express, courtesy of Michael Donovan.
Quarry Row is an offshoot from the road to Jackson’s Bridge. It extended from about Bryant’s Old Brewery premises, almost and occasionally abutting the River Taff. Then came Caepantywyll, and a path by the river led on to the Cyfarthfa Works.
Only a few yards from Bryant’s Brewery there was a passage between the houses for some short distance which thence was an open path up to the Grawen Road. The name of the resident has slipped my memory, but not many houses intervened before an observatory could be seen projecting above the roof, but it was not there as early as the place can be remembered by me. The owner was evidently an astronomer by inclination, though a grocer by trade. Persons by the name of Cornelius had a brewery not far off. The only person that can be called to mind was the Rev W Morris, who was the minister of the chapel in Caepantywyll.
A row of houses with the wall of the Cyfarthfa Works existed close by, and turning up by this wall (leaving the Cyfarthfa Works on the left) we should come out on the Brecon Road. Immediately opposite was a road leading to Gwaelodygarth, the Cyfarthfa Castle Park wall being on the left. We will, however, turn to the right, and return by the Grawen Road. There was a public house on the right, having its back to and overlooking Caepantywyll, kept by a very big man who had travelled as a giant, and there was also a small one who accompanied him as a dwarf.
The Grawen turnpike was nearer to Merthyr, and about there some years kept by Mr Scott was a grocer’s shop. That, during the absence of all the family at divine service, was broken into on a Sunday evening, and although a pretty extensive rummage had been made, the money bag was not discovered. It had been put where thieves would not be very likely to search – in and under the waste paper place of the counter. The time had been selected by those who were well acquainted with the circumstances for it was on a Sunday night following the Saturday’s ‘big draw’.
During the Chartist agitation, a William Gould, who was known as a prominent member, lived in Grawen Road (he too kept a grocer’s shop), and down towards the road was the home of the Evanses of Zoar, who were followed in the same house by the Owens of the same chapel. The brewery on the right, after passing a pond on the right at a lower level than the one on the left, was called Hopkin’s Brewery (it was this that Mr E L Richards was a partner in). Old Mr Hopkins was very fond of riding (he had a splendid jumper I remember).
In a field adjoining, and which was behind the row of houses then called Burnett’s Row on one side and the road to Pontstorehouse on the other, there was a very large block of limestone, which Mr Richards had moved there, and which he said was the fossil of a turtle. It was larger than those at the Zoological Gardens in London. At the end of Burnett’s Row we are at the house the Rev Mr Jones lived in, and we are back where we have already been.
To be continued at a later date…..
Fete & Gala
70 years ago today….
I remember that…..
by Laura Bray
1. The ‘top swings’ in Cyfarthfa Park.
2. Catching the bus to the ‘Ring Lamp’ stop.
3. Buying sweets from Weekes’ shop in Pontmorlais.
4. Depositing 2p pieces into the phone box outside Merthyr Railway Station, ringing for a lift home.
5. The old ironmongers in Glebeland Street where you could buy just two nails if that’s all you wanted.
Cyfarthfa Fountain
The article transcribed below appeared in the Merthyr Express 100 years ago today…
Fountain at Cyfarthfa Park
FORMAL PRESENTATION BY COL. J. J. JONES
On Tuesday afternoon the handsome water fountain presented to Cyfarthfa Park by Col. J. J. Jones, J.P., Cefn Coed, and his family, was formally presented to the Borough. The weather was exceedingly inclement, and during the whole of the interesting ceremony rain fell heavily, especially when Miss Jones turned on the water.
The fountain is planned with a circular basin 16ft. diameter, from the centre of which rises a circular pedestal 2ft. 6in. in diameter surmounted by three figures carrying a cornucopia, from which a jet of water issues. Around the base of the pedestal are carved dolphins and birds from the mouths of which sprays issue. Four winged cherubs riding on dolphins are placed around the basin, sprays issuing from the dolphins’ mouths. From the water line to the top of the pedestal is 9ft. 10in. A very pretty effect is produced when the fountain is in full play. The work has been carried out in Clipsham stone, a similar stone being used on most of the Oxford colleges.
The work has been executed by the well-known firm, Messrs. Martyn and Co., of Cheltenham. The architects were Messrs. Johnson and Richards, of Merthyr. The fountain work was done by Mr. E. P. Davies, builder, Dowlais.
The Mayor called upon Col. Jones to present the fountain to the park and to the inhabitants of the Borough.
Col. J. J. Jones, referring to the pouring rain, facetiously remarked that he was afraid that the people would be of the opinion that the fountain was a superfluity which they might very well do without. (Laughter.) For some years past his sister-in-law Mrs Jones, his nieces and himself had thought of presenting something useful to the Borough, and their chance fell upon this fountain. They thought that looking at the long connection of the family with Cyfarthfa, that it would be most appropriate to place the fountain in Cyfarthfa Park. (Applause.) He was glad they had the consent of the Corporation to erect it there, and it was with great pleasure that he handed the fountain to the town. (Hear, hear.) He was very glad indeed to have had the great skill and experience of Mr. Richards, the architect, to guide them in selection of the design, and also to carry out the work. He devoted a great deal of time and attention to do it, and he was sorry that an engagement in London prevented Mr. Richards from being present at that ceremony. The firm who undertook the work were to be congratulated upon its neat design and beauty. Col. Jones referred to the fact that during the preparation of the fountain his sister-in-law, Mrs. Jones, had passed away, and Mrs Jones was, unfortunately, unable to attend that day. He therefore, had pleasure in presenting the fountain to the people, and a thing of beauty in the beautiful park. (Applause.)
Councillor Dd Jones, Chairman of the Parks Committee, formally accepted the gift on behalf of the Corporation and the inhabitants of Merthyr. He said he was glad to find they had such men as Col. Jones come forward and help to beautify the park and increase the pleasure of the people. He trusted others would follow in his footsteps. (Applause.)
Miss Olive Jones then, amid applause, turned on the water.
At this stage the Mayor said he regretted the absence of Mr. H. Seymour Berry J.P., who had written to say that he was quite unable to fulfil his promise to attend and take part in that interesting function.
His Worship the Mayor moved a hearty vote of thanks to Col. Jones and his family for their generous gift to the townspeople, and said the people of Cefn, who were outside the Borough, would also be able to appreciate it when they visited the park. The name of Col. Jones’ family would now be enrolled in the history of the Borough, and whenever the present and future generations inspected the fountain, they would always refer with pride to the family who were so well known at Cefn. (Hear, hear.)
Councillor Parry, in seconding the vote, said he appreciated the fountain because it was so near the Castle School, and the scholars would be able to admire the work of the sculptor. (Hear, hear.) It would be an incentive to the scholars to make progress in art, and visitors would, he was sure, also appreciate it very much. The inhabitants of Merthyr would always be grateful to Col. Jones and his family for such a handsome gift. (Applause.)
The proposition was carried with acclamation, and Col. Jones having responded in a few, well-chosen words, an interesting ceremony in the history of the Borough concluded.
Many thanks to Tracy Barnard for transcribing this article.
Grand Military Tournament
110 years ago today….
Arthur Conan Doyle and the Merthyr Seance
The Cyfarthfa Plan
Lord Buckland – 17 September 1877–23 May 1928 – part 2
BOWEN, BERRY, and BILBO BAGGINS
By Irene Janes
continued….
During the First World War, the government urged people to donate money to help build tanks. When it was Tank Week in Merthyr Tydfil, Seymour rose to the challenge and our town beat all other towns in raising one million pounds in today’s money. As a thank you, Merthyr was given the tank that had toured the country helping to raise funds.
In 1919 Berry bought Gurnos Farm and its five hundred acres.
Berry admitted to being a gambler especially on the stock exchange. In hindsight, I think he won more than he lost and to our benefit.
He organised a Merthyr Tydfil Peace Memorial, £15,000 was raised which was distributed amongst the needy ex-servicemen and their dependents.
In 1920, with his brother, wife and David R. Llewellyn, Berry acquired John Lysaght and became its Chairman until it became part of Guest, Keen and Nettlefolds. Two years later he bought the Buckland estate in Bwlch, which included two thousand and six hundred acres and four miles of salmon fishing in the River Usk.
During this year the Conservative, Liberal and Constitutional Labour Parties all asked him to stand as a member of parliament for Merthyr Tydfil. He declined the offers.
In 1923 The Borough Council gave him the freedom of Merthyr Tydfil, and the following year he was invested as a Knight of Grace, Order of St John of Jerusalem. He held the office of High Sherriff of Brecknockshire. However, he still remembered his roots. An open-air baths had become derelict. Thanks to his interest and financial support the baths were renovated and had the added luxury of a roof, now fondly remembered as Gwaunfarren Baths.
In 1926, in the Kings Birthday Honours List, he became Baron Buckland of Bwlch for his public, political and philanthropic service. Nevertheless, to Merthyr people he is best known as how he should be addressed, that of Lord Buckland, and the following year he again became a Chairman of G.K.N. (previously known as Guest, Keen and Nettlefolds).
His philanthropic work is well-known. He bought the Carlton Workingman’s Hotel (we now know it as the Merthyr Ex-Service Mens Club), and Edwardsville School, Merthyr Tydfil Football Club and Dowlais Choir are just a few of the organisations who benefited from his financial donations. £12,000 was given for a new wing for the town’s General Hospital.
He gave land and money for the building of Sandbrook Sanatorium at Pontsarn, which he named after his father-in-law. He was a Freemason and belonged to Loyal Cambrian Lodge No 100 in Merthyr Tydfil.
On Wednesday, 23 May 1928. Lord Buckland greets his favourite bay mare and the estates stud groom, Henry Weaver, outside Buckland House. They ride to the meadow for a fast morning gallop. He turns to speak to Weaver, riding a horse behind. A shout goes out “Mind the post my Lord”. His master tries to turn. Collision with the telegraph post is unavoidable. Berry’s head smashes into it and he is unseated. Weaver runs to the house to alert the butler who dashes to the scene of the accident. Estate workers unhinge a gate to use as a stretcher. He is driven to hospital by car. Berry is dead.
This was just days before he and Lady Buckland were due to attend the Cyfarthfa Park Carnival where they were to crown the May Queen.
On Friday 26 May, vast crowds gathered around the Congregational Chapel in Market Square, where Berry had been a lifelong member. With the funeral service over the cortège proceeded down the valley to Pontypridd Crematorium. Along the way crowds gathered to pay their last respects to the man who did so much to give Merthyr residents a better quality of life. Apparently his ashes were scattered to the four winds. Without a male heir, his title of Lord Buckland became extinct.
There is so much more I could add. It is with little wonder there is a statue to Lord Buckland outside the central library it is in recognition to the high ideal of citizenship displayed in his generous gifts for the alleviation of suffering in the town and for increasing the happiness and prosperity of his fellowmen.
5 June 1931 saw the official opening of the Lord Buckland Memorial Hospital. After his death a fund was set up and over 50,000 contributed. The largest of the amounts came from his widow and his two brothers, which by now were also Lords, but their stories are not for now.
Even in death, his philanthropy lives on.
He left shares to be put into trust. The income applied to help the poor of Merthyr Tydfil. 1,000 shares to provide annual prizes to the pupils of Abermorlais, Cyfarthfa and County Schools. Perhaps you have a book given to you on prize giving day with a black oval stamp on the first inside page saying it was donated by Lord Buckland). 1,000 shares to Market Square Church.
The trust aims have had to be amended as the Abermorlais and County Schools have long gone. The charity aims are for ‘The relief, or assistance of the necessitous and deserving poor persons over the age of 30 years born or resided in the borough for 10 years’. Someone told me his grandmother had ten shillings a week from the fund, I suspect it would be more than 50p now. It is still active today and the appropriate agencies who are in contact with those in need can apply to the trust on their behalf. The 5 April 2019 trust accounts shows this year they donated £68,329.
BAGGINS – A connection
Bilbo Baggins is a name many are familiar with through a series of books by J.K. Tolkien.
In 1940 Tolkien had begun writing The Lord of The Rings. As a busy academic he chose Tal-y- Bont for a holiday and a chance to continue with his writing. A researcher from the Lord of The Rings Production Company is completely convinced the following places were the source of Tolkien’s inspiration. The Shire where the Buckleberries live, and child hood home of Frodo Baggins is based on the Buckland Estate with the curve of the river. Crick Hollow inspired by Crickhowell. Tredegar became Fredegar. The Merthyr Steel works possible Mordor. I wonder what Lord Buckland thinks about his old estate being the inspiration for the books and films. Yet another way the name Buckland continues to give.
I wonder what Tommy, Alfred, Marshall and my grandfather John Moses thought of their ex school teacher as he rose through society ranks and become rich beyond their dreams.
So back to where all this began, researching my family tree. I realised something, my grandfather was actually a child, and I thought he was born forty years old, with a balding head, collarless shirt with rolled up sleeves, black tatty waistcoat, black trousers with turn-ups and braces.
Thanks to Irene for this fascinating article.
There will be more coming about the Berry brothers soon.
The Holm Oak in Bethesda Street
by Clive Thomas
It was different when it was planted I suppose, whenever that was. Now it stands near a modern, regulated cross roads dedicated to ensuring the smooth running of traffic from one side of the town to the other. You see only a few pedestrians here and vehicle owners drive past, or sometimes frustrated, are required to halt and give their attention to the traffic lights. It does have some other green company now though from more recently Council-planted shrubs and small trees, but for many years it would have stood somewhat incongruously alone, alongside a very busy roadway. Its age is difficult to guess but it must certainly have been witness to many changes in the surrounding area. It stands sentinel with a strangely oriented boxer’s statue and the small but colourful memorial to a demolished chapel which only hint at the area’s rich heritage.
This thoroughfare was originally called Jackson’s Street, after the contractor who was commissioned in 1793 by the Dowlais Ironworks to build the stone arched bridge which still straddles the River Taff nearby. Although giving the rapidly increasing population of Georgetown and Heolgerrig, an alternative means of crossing the river from the more famous Iron Bridge, this bridge’s main purpose was to carry the tram road from the Dowlais Works to the canal warehouse and wharf on the Glamorganshire Canal. The tramroad would remain a vital link for the Dowlais Company for many years, and thousands of tons of iron would have been carried this way by teams of horse drawn wagons. As the town developed and more cottages built, junctions were created here, with Quarry Row leading into the riverside community of Caepantywyll and the Vulcan Road climbing the slope to Brewery Street and Sunnybank. Towards Pontmorlais, Bethesda Chapel had been built in 1811 and its name would eventually replace that of Mr. Jackson. Over a period of years, the area became overlooked by the tip of furnace waste from the Penydarren Ironworks, which continued to grow towards the river for most of the first half of the nineteenth century. It was between this British Tip, Jackson’s Bridge and the Taff that the notorious area of slum dwellings called ‘China’ would grow up.
Bethesda Street in 1967. The Holm Oak is clearly visible. Photo courtesy of the Alan George archive.
In the 1970’s however, great changes were taking place hereabouts. The re-configuration of the road system and the construction of a new Taff bridge required the demolition of many adjacent houses. Lawn Terrace, Garden Street, Paynters Terrace, along with The Old Tanyard Inn and Bethesda Chapel all disappeared. The removal of a substantial portion of the British Tip meant that whole area underwent considerable change. Surprisingly and against all odds, the tree survived and remained healthy. As a result of representations from the Merthyr and District Naturalists’ Society, whose members became concerned about its survival, it was made the subject of a Tree Preservation Order under the 1974 Wildlife and Countryside Act.
Quercus ilex, the Holm Oak belongs in Mediterranean climes and unlike our more familiar Sessile (Qercuspetraea) and Pedunculate (Quercusrobur) species, it is evergreen. Holm is the ancient English name for holly bush and it is indeed so like a holly that it is often mistaken for one. Its sombre evergreen foliage casts a very dense shade that nothing can grow beneath it and reflects the climatic conditions found in its native lands. There, the winter is rainy but fairly warm, while summers are dry and hot so thick waxy foliage is required to check undue loss of moisture. The tree is also unusual amongst the oaks in that its acorns take two years to mature. The species was first introduced into Britain in the sixteenth century at Mamhead Park, Devon and a large population is to be found on the Isle of Wight. It has naturalised in a number of areas of southern Britain.
One can only speculate at how it might have arrived in Merthyr Tydfil. The fairly close proximity of Cyfarthfa Park might offer one explanation. Several exotic species were imported by the Crawshay Family to enhance the landscaped parkland which surrounded their newly built gothic home. There are numerous Turkey Oaks (Quercuscerrris) on the banks of the Taf-Fechan near Cefn Coed which might have had their origins within the confines of the park. It is possible that this tree might have arrived as part of a consignment of saplings or perhaps even grown from a single acorn. Ironically now however, the species is thought to damage aspects of biodiversity in this country and is listed as an alien invader. Despite our own specimen’s somewhat anomalous existence, I hope it remains in situ for many more years.
