A Special Day in the Social History of Merthyr Tydfil

by Mary Owen

On this day in 1896, an extraordinary event occurred in the ‘urban district’ of Merthyr Tydfil: The County Intermediate and Technical School opened for work. Parliament had not yet recognised Merthyr as a proper ‘town’ but it had recognised the need for Welsh boys and girls to further their school studies until the age of eighteen and even to set their sights on a university education, if desired. These were children of working-class and small businessmen parents who could not afford the luxury of private or public- school tuition for their offspring. The school opened without ceremony but in a formal gathering in January 1897 Professor Villiamu Jones, Principal of University College, Cardiff, ended his inaugural speech, hoping that many Merthyr pupils would pass into that college in the future. Over seven decades a fair number did just that.

The curriculum planned for the new secondary stage -‘county intermediate’ schools – in   deprived, industrial areas of Wales was based on that of older grammar and public schools. They soon became known as county ‘grammar’ schools. Merthyr’s school was equipped to take in 100 boys and 80 girls who would pay a small fee. The knowledge of its young people broadened and their quality of life improved. Sadly, many children were not touched by this new venture and still left school at twelve, or earlier, usually because they had to, in order to earn a pittance – often down the mines – to boost the family income. The luckier ones, among whom were budding scholars, knew that a place in the school was a gift; some began to cherish ambitions of going to the new university colleges at Aberystwyth or Cardiff. Parents usually supported those youngsters even though it would mean seeing them leave home eventually – and possibly forever. Attendance numbers fluctuated but most pupils accepted that the new system of extra years and important exams would bring rewards.

Photo courtesy of the Alan George archive.

J.O. (John Oswald) Francis entered the school, at the age of fourteen, on the day it opened. He lived above his father’s farrier shop in 41, High Street, opposite the Baptist Chapel. He excelled at his studies and became a distinguished London dramatist, public speaker and broadcaster. When he left Merthyr at the age of eighteen his memories of the lively town stayed with him and inspired him to write plays and stories for nearly half a century. This is what he told wireless (radio!) listeners about the school in a B.B.C broadcast in the 1950s:

From St David’s School I went to the Higher Gradeschool in Caedraw. For boys whose parents did not send them away to school-and very few parents in Merthyr sent their children away for education- the Higher Grade was the limit the town offered us and it could not offer us much because it wasn’t linked to a university. For a boy who wanted to go on learning, Merthyr was a blind alley, a dead end. Then a rumour came flying about amongst us boys- flying for some of us like a bird with bright wings- a new kind of school was to be opened in Merthyr – a County Intermediate School that would provide secondary education up to quite a high level. And what a blessing the school was to Merthyr! What a blessing it was to me! I was young enough – and only just young enough – to take advantage of the new system. Had I been a year or two older I should have had to stay outside that learned paradise, looking rather hungrily at the gates that were closed against me. I was only a slip of a lad but I had enough sense to see what had happened. Merthyr was no longer a dead end. Merthyr was opportunity. I went for the opportunity with eager hands. At the end of my time at the County School I passed the Central Welsh Board’s examination and -manna from heaven! – I was awarded a County Exhibition of forty pounds a year. That was quite a big sum in those years and it eased my way to Aberystwyth to study for a university degree.

Fifty years on, as Francis made his way up to the school, during a visit to Merthyr, he mused on the opportunities his education had brought him:

 I am one of those lucky people…I realised more clearly than ever how much I owed to the school… I made bold to go in. I found the headmaster, Dr Lewis, who received me with great kindness. We talked together and he went off and came back with a big, brown, covered book. ‘This book is a permanent register of pupils who have been at the school’, he said. ‘I’ll show you your name.’ He opened the book and my name, written in full, was on the first page That got me all warmed up with sentiment… Then Dr Lewis took me to see the Honours Board on which were set out the names of pupils, who had won academic distinction. And there in the glory of gilt lettering, was a record of my having taken a B.A. degree-a degree I went off to work for in Aberystwyth fifty-five years ago.

Francis also hints in one of his stories that he was aware that although some pupils enjoyed the new subjects like Latin and French, they didn’t stay on, having been persuaded by proud collier fathers that their future was in coal-mining.

Others reminisce on past times at the school, now demolished, but of blessed memory:

Ceinwen Jones (now Statter), writes: I went to The County from Penydarren School in 1954. After the Easter holiday the whirlwind that was Glynne Jones arrived to teach us music. He changed my life! He set up a choir when about half the school came back (out of uniform) on Friday evenings. We went on to sing works like The Messiah. Thanks to some excellent teaching I went to Cardiff University to study French and Italian and then trained as a journalist on the Western Mail and Echo. Although being away in Reading for over forty years I have never been out of touch with friends like Sandra Williams, Merryl Robbins, Helen O’Connor and the sadly missed Valerie Baker and Byron Jones.

County School Choir. Photo courtesy of Ceinwen Statter

Ian Hopkins, a former Head Boy (1959-1960), also went on to Cardiff – to take a B.Sc. degree. He returned to Merthyr for long service in teaching and in choral activities: I entered the County Grammar School in 1953 and spent seven happy years there. Two of the teachers – without belittling the others – had a profound effect on my life, viz Elwyn Thomas (Head of Maths) and the inimitable Glynne Jones. The school choir was more than merely a musical organisation: Friday evening 6.00 pm rehearsal was the focal point of the social life of the school. Glynne engendered in me, and in many of the others, a love of choral music that has endured. In the heyday of the Dowlais Male Choir a disproportionate number of members had sung in Glynne’s school choirs.

The school had a three-form entry, one Boys, one Girls and one Mixed. Segregation of the sexes was strict with a boys’ corridor and a girls’ corridor. My memories include playing fives – the fives courts were unique for schools in our area- playing rugby for the school teams and football in the school yard.

One story: when I was in Form 2 there was a heavy fall of snow and a number of us were throwing snowballs in the classroom. Mr Thomas came in and demanded to know who was responsible. Some confessed and were given detention. Others, including me, did not- the fear of Elwyn was the beginning of wisdom! Later that afternoon, I encountered him in town and confessed and asked that my name be added to the detention list. But when the list was called out later in the week, not one of the miscreants was on it. From then on, Elwyn Thomas could do no wrong in my eyes. Perhaps that’s why I became a Maths teacher!

Many others who followed similar or different paths as adults will, no doubt, have lasting memories of ‘The County’.

The school was closed and demolished in the 1970s and the site acquired for new housing. Regrettably, and shameful to report, few records of its existence and of its countless pupils remain. It has been said that ‘even the revered Honours Board ended up on a skip’- evidently unwanted in the new replacement ‘comprehensive’ school at the top of town, part of the most recent parliamentary plan for secondary education.

Nevertheless, some facts and figures survive in an old almanack, published by the Merthyr Express at the end of 1896.It contains an invaluable review of the development of education in Merthyr from the 1840s; this ends with the then most recent step in that development – The County Intermediate School and an insight into the local efforts that were made to achieve it. It was written by Mr E. Stephens, Clerk of the Board of Education in Merthyr Tydfil. The subject of improved secondary schooling for pupils up to the age of eighteen, had been discussed over decades in Parliament, where it was championed by Henry Austin Bruce, MP for Merthyr Tydfil, (future Lord Aberdare) and at the Glamorgan County Education Department in Cardiff. A new century was nigh before it materialised:

The question of Welsh Intermediate Education excited as deep an interest at Merthyr as it did in other parts of Wales and no time was lost in taking measures to secure the boon conferred by the Act of Parliament (i.e. The Welsh Intermediate Education Act of 1889) for the creation of these schools. On the 18th of November that year, a conference was held at the Board Room of the Workhouse, over which Mr W. Morgan JP, then High Constable, presided. It was decided to ask the County Committee to make Merthyr a centre for one of the schools- to accommodate 100 boys and 80 girls… After much negotiation a site embracing two acres of freehold land was finally secured in the Clock Field at Penydarren for £1200, Colonel Morgan, the owner, contributing £300 out of the amount for the building fund. A public meeting, in aid of the scheme was held at the Temperance Hall on March 20th 1891, Lord Aberdare presiding. A premium of £25 was offered for the successful plan, but the one chosen, by a Mr Crombie of London, proved to be far too expensive. The committee then obtained a second competition, on the basis of £25 per head. The plan of Mr E. Lingen Barker of Hereford was selected. The tender of Mr J. Williams of Swansea was accepted for the erection of the schools, but before the buildings were completed and opened for scholars the planned cost had run up to £6,198 3s 2d of which the architect received £464 14s 6d; the clerk of works £128  6s and the contractors the balance. Of this account £1,557 2s was raised by local subscriptions and the county fund provided the rest. (The fifty donors and the amounts donated are listed).

Alderman Thomas Williams JP is the chairman of the local governing body and the following comprise the teaching staff of the schools. Headmaster, Mr Charles Owen M.A. salary £100 a year with a capitation of £2 per year on each boy; first assistant master Mr W.H. Topham M.A., salary £160; second assistant master, Mr A.J. Perman M.A., salary £130; first mistress, Miss Edith Heppel who won a B.A. degree at Oxford but did not receive it as that university does not confer degrees upon women, salary £180 a year; second mistress, Miss Kate Thomas, salary £100 a year. The schools were opened for work on October 12th 1896, but a ceremonial opening is to take place on January 11th, 1897.

The school (i.e. pupils, staff and buildings) established itself in the Clock Field just before the start of the 20th century, in the soon-to-be-incorporated ‘town’ of Merthyr Tydfil.

Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

Mary Owen.

Who attended the former Port Talbot County Intermediate School (1945- 52)

With thanks to Betty Harrington for the gift of the almanack, and to Ceinwen Statter, Ian Hopkins and the late J.O. Francis for the memories.

Caedraw

by Carolyn Jacob

Following on from the last post here’s a potted history of Caedraw by Carolyn Jacob.

Caedraw means ‘the field beyond’, as it was just outside the traditional village of Merthyr Tydfil and a district beside the River Taff. Although in the eighteenth century it was just a field, as soon as Merthyr started to develop an iron industry this area had houses erected on it for workers and it soon became a built up area. Caedraw first started to have houses from 1800 onwards. Streets here included Taff Street, Upper Taff Street, Picton Street and streets with curious names, such as Isle of Wight and Adam and Eve Court. There was once an old woollen mill in Mill Street. This district was bordered by the River Taff and the Plymouth Feeder.

Caedraw from the 1851 Public Health Map
The same area in 1919

Along the banks of the river as well as a woollen mill there was a tannery, a laundry, a gas works, together with shops and public houses. The Taff was at its most polluted here, having industrial and household waste, together with the black waters of the Morlais Brook, ‘the Stinky’, carrying the filth of Dowlais and Penydarren Ironworks. Thankfully the herons on its banks find the river much cleaner today.

A hundred years ago Caedraw School was multicultural with English, Irish, Italian, Jewish and Welsh pupils. The old Caedraw School was built in 1872 and had some very famous ex pupils, such as the freeman of Merthyr Tydfil and miner’s leader, Arthur Horner. The school was situated by the old gas works.

Caedraw School with St Tydfil’s Church behind. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

Because the district was very near to the river Taff, the first laundry in Merthyr Tydfil was set up here but sadly the workers here succumbed to cholera in the 1849 epidemic and this resulted in the Parish publishing a newspaper advertisement to tell people not to boil their water. According to the 1881 census there was a woollen factory between numbers 37 and 42 Picton Street. There were a number of public houses, lodging houses, and a bakehouse in Vaughan Street.

This built up area consisting of lots of small courtyards was very densely populated. The houses themselves were very clean, but small and without any modern conveniences. The old rambling buildings along tightly packed streets of Caedraw became very old fashioned and in need of repair by the 1950s. Merthyr Tydfil Borough Council decided to redevelop Caedraw and build modern flats here to replace the old houses. From 1959 onwards old Caedraw was gradually pulled down but not without a certain feeling of sadness, despite a headline in the Western Mail on 24 April 1959, ’12 Acres of ugliness being razed, Merthyr’s biggest face lift. More than 200 houses, two shops, two pubs and a club were put under the sledge-hammer in one of the biggest redevelopment schemes in South Wales’.

An aerial view of Caedraw before it was redeveloped. Caedraw School can be seen in the bottom right hand corner with the gasworks in front of it, next to the river. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

The official opening of the Caedraw ‘Central Housing Redevelopment Project’ was on Thursday 22 April, 1965 by James Griffiths, Secretary of State for Wales. The Caedraw Scheme of 193 dwellings consisted of 66 one-bedroomed flats in the 12 storey point block. There are 64 two-bedroom maisonettes, 24 three-bedroomed maisonettes and 8 bed-sitting room flats in 8 4-storey blocks. The remainder of the accommodation is contained in two 3-storey blocks containing 19 two-bedroomed maisonettes, 9 one-bedroom flats and 3 bed-sitting room flats. The tender of George Wimpey and Co. Ltd. was accepted by the Council in January 1963 and work on the flats commenced four months later in April. The completion date in the contract was April 1965 but the scheme was completed and handed over six months ahead of this date.

Caedraw in 1965 after the redevelopment. Photo from the official ‘Opening’ programme of the Caedraw Project

Each block of flats was named after an important figure in the history of Wales. St Tydfil’s Court (the Celtic Saint buried here), Portal House (Portal wrote the report of the Royal Commission of 1935 into the state of Merthyr Tydfil), Wilson Court  (Harold Wilson was Labour Prime Minister when the flats were opened), Buckland House (Lord Buckland a wealthy financier born in Merthyr), Attlee House (Clement Attlee Labour Prime Minister after 1945), Hywel House (Hywel Dda was a Welsh King who had the laws of the country written down), Trevithick House (Trevithick was the first to use a locomotive to transport iron from Penydarren and unwillingly carried passengers too).

Merthyr Memories: The Last Days of Georgetown School

I was one those people lucky enough to attend Cyfarthfa School on all three of its sites – Georgetown, Cyfarthfa Castle and Cae Mari Dwn. In fact, I was in the very last intake of pupils to go to Georgetown before it closed its doors forever.

Georgetown School was in fact a cluster of several buildings. The two main buildings – in my day ‘The Main Block’ and ‘The Art Block’, were the original school buildings – formerly Georgetown Girl’s School built in 1905 and Georgetown Boy’s School built in 1907. These subsequently became Georgetown Secondary Modern School, with the ‘Main Block’ being the the Boys and girls school, now joined by a corridor whilst the ‘Art Block’ was Georgetown Infants School.

An extract from a 1922 map of Merthyr showing the original layout of Georgetown Schools. From left to right – the Boys School, The Girls School and the Infants School.

There was also a wooden building, dating from the days when Georgetown was a Secondary Modern, known in my day as ‘The Annexe’, housing the metalwork workshop and the domestic science room on the ground floor, and the chemistry/biology lab and the physics lab on the first floor. There were also two ‘huts’ – one housing the language lab, and one the woodwork workshop.

Georgetown School. Left to right – the ‘Annexe’, the ‘Main Block, and the ‘Art Block’. Photo courtesy of http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/index.htm

With the coming of the comprehensive system, Georgetown merged with Cyfarthfa Castle Grammar School to become Cyfarthfa High School. Georgetown served as the lower school – housing forms 1 and 2.

It is fair to say that, by the time I went to Georgetown in 1980, the school had seen better days. One of my lasting memories is seeing various types of mushrooms growing out of the walls in several of the classrooms….a new experience for me!!!!! There were also one or two classrooms with broken windows (health and safety wasn’t such an issue in those days). Granted, the windows were quite high up…but there was no escaping the arctic blasts of wind that would regularly infiltrate the classrooms and reach the parts that other breezes could not reach!!! To be fair, the school was on the verge of closure, so I’m sure material repairs were low on the list of priorities.

Going to Georgetown was a major upheaval for all of us. Up until then, we had all had the same classmates for many years, in my case through infants and junior school in Twynyrodyn, but going to Georgetown we would be mixing with people from OTHER SCHOOLS – Caedraw, Cyfarthfa, Gellideg and Heolgerrig…what’s more, we’d all be mixed up in different classes. It was unbelievably traumatic to think that we would be wrenched from our friends and thrown in with strangers, and we just knew that we would NEVER mix with these others. Within a few weeks however, new friendships were forged.

The other big difference was that, in Twyn School, we had one classroom and one teacher (the incomparable Eddie Humphries in my case). In Georgetown we would have different teachers for different subjects, and we would move from one classroom to another. What’s more, we were doing subjects we’d never even dreamt of – French, Biology, Chemistry, Physics, Metalwork & Woodwork. It was all a great adventure.

Georgetown School in 1982, shortly before being demolished, showing the ‘Main Block’ and the two ‘huts’ that housed the woodwork workshop and the language lab. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

For me though, the bane of my existence in Georgetown were the compulsory PE lessons, especially when we had to trudge up to the Wern Field in Ynysfach in all weathers. Even now, after all of these years, I come out in a cold sweat at the thought of it.

Wern Field in Ynysfach. Photo courtesy of http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/index.htm

Another, and indeed happier memory springs to mind – I remember the whole school assembling in the playground to watch, on a quite a small TV screen, the launch of the first ever Space Shuttle – the Columbia, on 12 April 1981. I remember that there was great excitement, but what we could actually see of the launch on such a small screen, and outdoors, I can’t remember, but the fact that I can remember the occasion must mean it had special significance.

At the end of my first year at Cyfarthfa High School, everything changed. The new Cyfarthfa School at Cae Mari Dwn was ready, and from the next school year, the lower school would be moving to Cyfarthfa Castle. For me, and I think for most people, this was really exciting…..going to school in the famous Cyfarthfa Castle – so we all blithely left Georgetown, not even giving it a second thought – far more exciting prospects lay ahead.

During that summer holiday, the wooden Annexe was destroyed by fire, and within a few years, the rest of the school was demolished. Nothing remains of Georgetown School – except the memories, and they are, on the whole very pleasant ones. I think I was lucky to go there – albeit briefly.

Georgetown School being demolished in 1982. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

Did you know?

Following on from the previous article, did you know that the area behind St Tydfil’s Church (roughly where the present day Caedraw and St Mary’s Schools and the flats and maisonettes are in Caedraw) used to be known as the Isle of Wight?

The following piece by Carl Llewellyn throws some light on the derivation of the name.

The 1851 census showed the area called ‘Isle of Wight’ having 22 houses, by 1871 however, the area was actually referred to as ‘Isle of White’. There was a channel which conveyed the mill stream, passing the Rectory down through Mill Street, was extended to reach the Plymouth Works, and was known as the feeder. The Welsh for channel or conduit is “Gwyth” or Wyth”. It is probable that the feeder was constructed from the flood gates through an aforetime “Ynys” (island or meadow), which was known as “Ynys Gwyth” or “Ynys Wyth”, that is meadow of channel or conduit.

Now the Welsh name for the real Isle of Wight is “Ynys Gwyth” or “Ynys Wyth”, both forms being found. This resemblance evidently prompted someone with a sense of humour to dub the area by the feeder as Isle of Wight.

Below is an extract from an 1836 map of Merthyr clearly showing the area marked as ‘Isle of Wight’.